Clothing Colonial Williamsburg ~ All Things Cloth and Leather

 September 18 – 20, 2022, by Amy

The majority of the clothes and shoes worn by the costumed interpreters and shopkeepers in Colonial Williamsburg, is produced right in the shops.  Open days and hours vary with each shop, with opening being denoted by a flag in a stand along the sidewalk. 

All of the work is done with eighteenth century equipment only, so is time consuming and tedious.  Those occupying the open shops are not there merely to demonstrate their craft, but to work on projects.  They are usually happy to answer questions as they work, and some of them have sort of a set spiel that give, that may occasionally have some political correctness thrown in. If you can find a shop that isn't busy, and are curious enough to ask questions, you'll step back out onto the street with a wealth of information and a vision of what it must have been like to, for example, purchase a gown in the eighteenth century.  Below, the mistress of the Milliner and Mantua Maker shop (dressmakers) explains some of the variations in women's undergarments.

Milliner and Mantua Maker shop

Before the years of factory-made clothing, and even before sewing patterns for specific sizes could be purchased, the mantua maker would fit the clothing directly to a person's body for a perfect fit.  Many measurement would be taken, cut pieces of fabric draped, tucked and pinned, before sewing would commence.  And of course multiple fittings.  If a person was unable to come into the shop, a well-fitted garment could be sent in to be copied, and from that, a new gown created.

Mantua apprentices sewing by the light of the sunny front window

While the ladies of Williamsburg had someone else to stitch their gowns, accomplished women still kept their fingers busy with fancywork.  Below, the mistress shows an embroidered pocket.  

Gowns were made with slits in the sides.  This fancy pocket could be embellished in any way, and didn't have to match the wearer's gown, as it was worn between the gown and petticoat.  One could discreetly reach in for a needed item.

Beautifully embroidered women's pocket

Today the Weaver's Shop combines all the tasks that go into creating both linen and woolen fabric.  The Leicester Longwool sheep (a breed originally from Britain) that dot the pastures around Williamsburg, produce a wool that is soft and easy to work with, falling in long ringlets.  

After the wool is washed and either combed or carded, it is spun.  Below, the weaver's hands keep busy as she chatters about the trade.  I admit, she was not my favorite person as she talked much, and listened little.  Most of what I learned was from previous visits, or researched from the Colonial Williamsburg webpage.

Once a month there is a Dyeing Day outside behind the weaver's shop.  There, over open fires the fibers go through two different water processes, scouring (deep cleaning) and mordanting (to create color-fastness) before being placed in various natural dyes.  

A large loom stood in front of the sunny window.  Much of the fabric worn around Williamsburg was created on this loom.  It's also used to create rugs, coverlets and blankets.

In addition to wool, the weavers work with cotton and linen.  Linen, the stuff that looks like horsetails in the photo below, is produced with the fibers of the flax plant.  I believe that Colonial Williamsburg is still working on establishing flax as a crop, using eighteenth century methods.  

At the Tailors Shop we were greeted by a man sitting cross-legged on a broad, low table.  Not "Indian style" as I had always heard it called, nor "crisscross applesauce" as it may be called in kindergarten.  The proper term, according to the tailor, is, and always has been, "tailor style".  

Hands ever busy as he spoke, the tailor shared a wealth of information with us while hemming the sleeve of a man's green woolen coat.  The broad table can be used for two tailors working side by side to complete a garment in a more timely manner.  Having sat this way most of his life, this tailor-style position was comfortable for him, but to me it looked rather painful.  

Primarily menswear was made here, from undergarments of soft cottons and linens, to fancy brocade jackets.  The tailor was very knowledgeable about weaving, and explained in detail about the construction of brocade.  Unfortunately I didn't write it down so can't recall, but it required many extra steps on the loom.  The process that eventually mechanized this was the precursor of the computer. 

Bolts of fabrics of all kinds, along with trims and thread filled the shelves of the tailors shop.  Some of the fabric was created at the weavers, others was purchased elsewhere.  Likewise, some of the garments made here clothe the reenactors in the Revolutionary city, others are created on order for museums elsewhere.   

Stepping into the Public Leatherworks, one is greeted by a knowledgeable and personable man. With round, brass spectacles perched upon his hat, he shared about the construction of all things leather.  

He pondered aloud why, with horses being the common mode of transportation in Colonial Williamsburg, he didn't have more orders for them, but rather for clothing and accessories.  On the table in front of him is a belt with sheath for some type of sword or dagger.  A good listener, the proprietor of this shop was very open to our questions.

While he no doubt knew where everything was, the organizer in me wanted to step behind the counter and rearrange his messy shelves.

These doeskin boys breeches were unimaginably soft.  I'm sure they'd last pretty much forever and get passed down through a string of little boys. 

On my trip with my parents and Alyssa, the Shoemaker shop was housed in a tiny building on the Duke of Gloucester Street.  There a cozy fire kept the small building warm, and the leather supple for working with.  Due to covid concerns, in the last couple of years it has been relocated into this larger, open building behind the Public Armory.  Certainly more room to spread out the mess. 

Sporting some striking purple stockings, the shoemaker was busily working, but open to questions.  My stay here was brief though, as we were soon to be heading for the airport.

Clad in a sturdy leather apron, an apprentice shoemaker works away in a corner, smoothing down the leather heel of a shoe.  

Most customers coming into this shop in the 1700s would have purchased shoes ready made.  If they had unusually sized feet, they could have ordered a pair specially made.  In the eighteenth century, shoes were not created with a right and a left shoe, but rather formed to the wearer's foot.  

A wooden shoe last was used by the shoemaker to form the leather shoe.  While the majority of the shoes made in this shop were sturdy leather, made for striding down uneven cobbles, or boots made to fit well in a stirrup, fashionable fancy shoes were also worn in Colonial Williamsburg.  Fashions in the city came directly from England, so while a lady wouldn't have owned a pair of Keds, she would have certainly had a fancy pair of ballroom slippers made of silk or the finest leather. 

xxx

Bruton Parish Episcopal Church

 September 18, 2022 ~ by Amy

For more than three centuries, worshippers have gathered in this brick building on the shady, westerly end of the Duke of Gloucester Street.  Prior to the initial construction of this place of worship, was a smaller brick building built in the Gothic style and completed in 1683.  The congregation quickly outgrew this location, and by the early years of the eighteenth century, this present building was under construction.  It would, however, go through many changes through the years. 

In its early years Bruton was an activity hub for both locals and government officials.  As members of the Virginia House of Burgesses, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Patrick Henry attended the Bruton service when the legislature was in session.  Many other well-known people attended as well; royal governors, members of the council and local leaders.  Their names are inscribed on many of the elaborate, expansive tombstones that dot the walled lawn of the churchyard. 

The church underwent multiple changes through the years, both inside and out.  Among those was during the Civil War.  In May of 1862, following the battle of Williamsburg, Bruton church was used as a hospital for Confederate soldiers.  Due to that situation and many more, Bruton fell into a state of total disrepair for many years.  Some efforts were made at reconstruction, but the main restoration took place in 1938 and 1939, when team Goodwin and Rockefeller took on the task, along with the rest of Colonial Williamsburg.

I intentionally planned this trip so that we could worship at Bruton on Sunday morning.  I have fond memories of attending the morning service with my parents and daughter Alyssa, as well as a special evensong service.  I like to be on time for a church service, but when I'm going somewhere new, I like to be especially early.  Thus, I allowed plenty of time for a leisurely walk down the shady Duke of Gloucester.  Flowers, in pocket gardens nodded over picket fences as I strolled along. 

Once in the walled-in churchyard, I paused beside this sundial to communicate with my family.  As I looked down at my phone, a woman walking by chuckled as she stated that I must be checking if the clock was showing the right time.  

Members of the choir, easily identified by their white and blue robes, relaxed between services out in the courtyard.  One of them, an elderly man, came to chat with me.  It turns out he was distant cousin to the person buried under a table stone in the courtyard.  I took a picture of the interesting epitaph, but as I was squinting into the sun, and not wearing my glasses, I sadly cut the top off.  What remains is a precious sentiment. 

...by Faith and the Graces of a christian life, all that was Mortal of Mrs. Ann Burges once the tender and affectionate Wife of the Revd HENRY JOHN BURGES, of the ISLE of WIGHT: She died 25th December 1771 in giving Birth to an Infant Daughter, who rests in her Arms; she waits the transporting Moment when the Trump of GOD shall call her Forth to Glory, Honor & Immortality. 

Oh DEATH where is thy Sting?

Oh GRAVE where is thy Victory?

Entry gate to walled courtyard and classic red door to the side entry

Once inside I had time to look around at the various plaques and memorials that had accumulated through the years. 

When I told the usher that my family and I were visiting from afar, he offered us a traditional box pew, way up front.  I've always been intrigue by these, so I accepted.  

Brass plaque in our pew

This put us right up near the beautiful wooden pulpit with its sounding board, as well as the magnificent pipe organ.

Pulpit restored to its former splendor

An elderly member of the alter guild doing her duties following the service

The liturgical service was easy to follow with the multi-paged bulletin.  Some of the readings and prayers were printed in the program, while others were found in the Book of Common Prayer.  It was a joy to sing the many familiar hymns, and do our best to follow a few others.  

Hymnal, bulletin, and the Book of Common Prayer (BCP)

Though many changes have taken place in the church through the past three centuries, and many changes in our modern world, as well as the lifestyles of those who walk by its doors daily, the church stands as a solid testimony to the faith of our founding fathers and the endurance of God’s word and presence in our contemporary world.

The Fifes and Drums of Colonial Williamsburg

 September 16 – 21, 2022 ~ By Amy

The compelling music from the fifes and drums has been stirring the hearts of visitors to Colonial Williamsburg since 1958.  Youths of age nine or ten from the local area audition to become a part of the eight-year program. 

In days gone by, music was an integral part of military life.  From Reveille to Taps, to songs of retreat, cease fire, and even songs for mealtimes. 

Dressed in full, period-authentic uniforms, the youth of the Williamsburg Fifes and Drums play most days, using their music in a variety of ways.  On my trips there I have observed them playing while George Washington inspected his troops prior to the battle of Yorktown, they have drilled on the field behind the courthouse, and many times marched down the shady Duke of Gloucester Street. 

As I've become somewhat obsessed with this aspect of visiting Williamsburg, I spent quite a bit of time on their website, looking for the back story.  Much research goes into their uniforms.  Not a button or pocket goes into the design unless it is historically accurate.  During the American Revolution, one fifer, and one drummer were deployed with every company of seventy-five officers and men.  The inverted colors of their uniforms, being predominantly red, marked them as non-combatant. 

In the mid eighteenth century, hunters in the American colonies often wore an off-white fringed shirt.  Opening down the center, it was loose fitting, and fastened with a belt.  In July of 1775, when George Washington became commander of the Continental Army, he needed to quickly find an available uniform with which to clothe his troops. He settled upon the hunting shirt.  “It is designed as a Species of Uniform—both cheap & convenient.” He would later say, “No Dress can be had cheaper, nor more convenient, as the Wearer may be cool in warm weather, and warm in cool weather by putting on under-Cloaths which will not change the outward dress, Winter or Summer—Besides which it is a dress justly supposed to carry no small terror to the enemy, who think every such person a complete marksman.” 

Eventually the blue and red woolen uniform was created and adopted, but the hunting shirt was used throughout the war. 

Marching down Duke of Gloucester towards the Capitol

Williamsburg Carpentry Trades

 September 20, 2022 ~ By Jarret

I’ll start by saying that Williamsburg couldn’t have been a better fit for me when it comes to a trip not intended just for relaxation, but instead a trip with a little learning and purpose in mind. When it comes to learning, I learn best by a visual format with props you can touch and feel and the ability to ask questions and interact. So, needless to say, Williamsburg fit this to a “T”.

There were numerous tradesmen and tradeswomen who gave demonstrations of their craft. The gratifying thing with each and every one of them is that their work had a tangible purpose. For example, the tailor painstakingly makes period-authentic garments for his fellow Williamsburg citizens. And they also have a connection with history, with real tradesmen and women of the past. This was something very satisfying to me, as it’s not common to see our clothes or shoes being made in front of us.

Woman sharpening a saw blade.  Note the tavern mugs being used for drinking water.

And of course, the people who work with wood are definitely some of the people I  most wanted to meet. This craft in this historical setting combines two things I love: woodworking and increasing my knowledge of how woodworking and house building have been done in times past. Colonial American architecture, in particular, is something I always find attractive and want to learn more about.

There were two shops I visited related to these crafts: the cabinet shop and the joinery shop. First, my mom and I visited the cabinet shop. As we entered the first room of the shop, we were greeted by a row of beautiful furniture that had been built without the benefit of modern power tools. Next, as we stood at the back of a crowd of people, I was impressed by my mom identifying the species of a few slabs of raw wood. This was a reminder of where I got my love of woodworking - my mom has done wood projects her whole life and gave us kids a lot of teaching and the freedom and encouragement to use tools and develop creativity and confidence in a variety of crafts from a young age.

As the crowd thinned out, we learned briefly about the cabinetmakers as well as the harpsichord makers, who operated in the same shop. A funny thing that occurred was when the cabinetmaker showed a brand new drop-leaf table he’d recently finished, noting that the interesting swivel-leg design was common in the late 18th century. My mom let him know that a similar coffee table in our rented cottage had an unfortunate height/width ratio, as well as a missing leg and two compromised legs, which caused continual hazard to our food and drink. She even jokingly offered to take an original 1700’s leg that he’d found at an antique sale and fit it to our sad coffee table.

Explaining the history of an antique table leg

Next, I visited the joinery shop on my own. I learned that joinery in the context of the late 1700’s essentially meant being a finish carpenter, which also included building your own doors and windows. One thing that really interested me was when one of the carpenters pulled down a well-worn book, which was a dictionary of architectural styles. He commented on the use of Doric columns which were prevalent in that era, such as we’d observed at the US Capitol, and how George Washington chose simpler Tuscan columns for Mount Vernon. Then he showed me some commonly used tools, many of which were typical saws and planes, but I hadn’t seen molding planes in person before.

Our time at these and most shops was fairly brief, so I’d love to go back and learn much more about the tools the carpenters were using and see more projects being worked on. In another life, I could see myself working in one of these shops for a few years, and I think I’d find great satisfaction in using my mind and hands to preserve history and beautiful architecture.